The Ancient Highway

– Journeys from the edge

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        • 5. Mumbai: A Deathly Deception
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      • TOUCHING THE WALL – IN THE SHADOWS OF WARS (1)
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    • PAINTING THE WALL – ECHOES FROM A FAULT LINE 
    • A REFLECTION
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Living with Clive

(EXTRACT)

Empired Out  

At the end of 1999, just days before the start of the New Millennium, I was to return to India for a further stint of wanderings. 

In the months before flying out, I consumed far too much literature on the history of British India. I made inroads into Lawrence James’s dense tome on the Making and Unmaking of the British Raj. I then switched over to Jan Morris’s jaunty Pax Britannica trilogy about the wider Empire, managing 1.5 books here, before picking up John Keay’s erudite piece The Honourable Company. But I think, by then, I was just Empired out.  

Clive in a Box

My reading confirmed quite a bit of what I had previously absorbed in relation to Britain’s colonisation of foreign territories, particularly India and especially about Robert Clive. I was under no illusions just who Clive of India was and of his leading role in the subjugating and plundering of the subcontinent, under the auspices of the East India Company.

He just seemed so different to the man who had a whole glossy children’s book of mine, devoted to him. This was part of a box set about courageous people, and Brits in particular, who had made the world a much better place.  Clive wasn’t the only suspect person included in this box set. However, the collection also included the likes of Florence Nightingale, Emmeline Pankhurst and Marie Curie. The beautiful and the damned, leant side by side within the box, all to be deeply revered. 

Recalling the general tone of these children’s publications, before setting off for my latest foray into India, made me come over all colonial. I really couldn’t understand what those Guardian readers were complaining about. Yes, we stole the country’s freedom and plundered its resources, but we gave the natives their governmental and judicial institutions, and a rail network, not to mention doing our best with a Christian god.  Boy had we civilised them! 

But of course, it is no joking matter. All this ‘modernisation’ was implemented in a manner that enabled the new rulers to exploit and ship the wealth out of the country even faster; to use it as a bargaining counter in the dark side of triangular trade; and, to exacerbate a famine that killed millions of people. And that is just for starters. There really didn’t seem to be much to recommend it from any kind of moral perspective whatsoever. 

Focusing on the Raj 

And so, after all this reading, I arrived in the subcontinent, feeling a bit like a pariah-representative of a small nation state, five thousand miles away. 

But my history lessons over the coming weeks, whilst in India, tended to focus on the 90-year era of direct rule by the UK Government – the British Raj, which superseded the East India Company, an epoch which was to last until independence.  I was to revisit Robert Clive instead a matter of months later, when he reappeared in my life, in a way that I could not have envisaged…… (Continued)

Damian Rainford, 2023

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Clive statue and house image -Damian Rainford

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Category: 02.Old Blighty06.India13.Pre-20th Century History14.Modern HistoryBluesky post
  • HOME
  • THE ANCIENT HIGHWAY BLOG.
  • WEBSITE BASICS
  • From Parchment to Digital – Creating Our Travel Website
  • The truth, the whole truth …..
  • ANCIENT HIGHWAY STORIES – ABOUT THE TALES BELOW
  • 1. Orkney – A Pagan Place
  • 2. Lessons in contraband
  • 3. An Addictive Foe
  • Our India Travel Tales – Interactive Map
  • 4. (India) Mumbai: A Deathly Deception
  • 5. (India) An Innings Amongst the Dead
  • 6. (India) Lucknow: Educating Braj
  • 7. (India) Nainital – A Himalayan Winter’s Journey
  • 8. (India) Dharamsala and Simla
  • 9. (India) Tales From The Tracks
  • 10. (India) Fatehpur Sikri – City of Dreams
  • 11. (India) Mohan, Mohan who?
  • 12. (India) The Silence of Mandu
  • 13 . (Ecuador) The Virgin of Quito and Proof of Life
  • 14. (Ecuador) A Night at Sutra’s
  • 15. (Thailand) A Lift in Chiang Mai
  • 16. (Thailand) Tales of the Unexpected in Chiang Mai
  • 17. (Thailand) Bullets or Tranquility
  • 18. Mexico : A nonfiction novella
  • 19. My Pretty Peggy Sue – USA & UK (New)
  • 20. Living With Clive (New)
  • 21. In Defence of Travel Writing
  • 22. Ode to Travel Blogging
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  • Just Across the Border Line – Book in progress (Pass protected)
    • I. INTRODUCTION
    • ii. YUGOSLAVIA – TWILIGHT ON THE ADRIATIC
    • iii. TOUCHING THE WALL – IN THE SHADOWS OF WARS (1)
    • iii. TOUCHING THE WALL – IN THE SHADOWS OF WARS (2)
    • iii. TOUCHING THE WALL – IN THE SHADOWS OF WARS (3)
    • iv. A REVOLUTION FROM THE SOFA
    • v. MIND GAMES IN BARCELONA
    • vi. CAIRO AND COURIERING
    • vii. BETWEEN MINARETS AND MISSILES
    • viii. THE LONELY HEART OF DARKNESS – A MOROCCAN ODYSSEY
    • ix. GERMANY – THROUGH EASTERN EUROPE – AUSTRIA 
    • x. BALTIC STATES & SAINT PETERSBURG
    • xi. MANITOBA: THE BEARS OF CHURCHILL
    • xii. ARRIVING IN MUMBAI
    • xiii. PAINTING THE WALL – ECHOES FROM A FAULT LINE 
    • xiv. A REFLECTION
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